BALTIMORE AS I KNEW IT
By J E Firth <triestus@msn.com>
It is circa 1934 and I am standing at the intersection of N.Charles
and Baltimore Sts. It's such a beautiful day that I have decided to take
a leisurely stroll up Charles St. I've invited several others to go
along. I'm wearing a pull-over sweater, knickers, (adults call them
plus-fours when they wear them) golf-type stockings, black shoes and a
cap. (can't wait 'til I'm 16 so I can get long pants). Some of the older
fellows (not many of them!) are wearing white-duck trousers and saddle
shoes. The girls are wearing blouses and skirts, anklets and saddles.
Their skirts are modest in length.
Before we start our walk, let me tell you about the area. Baltimore and
Charles Sts. is literally the "center" of Baltimore. It is from here
north-south and east-west is determined when referring to streets. ie.
E. Baltimore St., W. Baltimore St., etc. It is also known as "Sun
Square" because on the S.W corner is the home of the Sun Newspapers.
(They built a new building on Calvert St. many years ago). Notice the
electric sign going all around the building displaying the latest news;
just like The Times in N.Y.C. That beautiful building on the S.E. corner
is The Savings Bank of Baltimore. Note the massive columns. Inside, is
nothing but marble, marble, and marble! (It is now vacant). That
old-looking building on the N.W. corner is the B&O Railroad
headquarters. We are standing on the N.E corner next to The Hub Dept
store.
I want to get started but there are so many interesting things
about this intersetion. If you scan the east, south ,and west
directions, the area you see and beyond all the way to the harbor were
complelely devasted by The Great Baltimore Fire of February 1903. The
fire completely leveled nearly 1800 blocks, destoying over 1400
buildings. Peek around the corner of The Hub and looking east down
Baltimore Street you can see Thomas & Thompson's drugstore at the corner
of Light Street; they have the longest soda fountain in the city and
always have a punchbowl of graham crackers on the counter just for the
taking when you order a "short chocolate." You can't see it, but just
south of them is the Southern Hotel (now gone many years ago). Also,
directly across from the drug store is the Baltimore Trust Bldg, the
tallest bldg in the city.(It later was called several other names such
as The Matheson Bldg., O'Sullivan Bld.) Don't ask me how I know, but
thousands will gather here in 1945 celebrating VJ Day. What's VJ Day you
ask? You'll find out in about 11 years. But enough of this dallying, we
must get started on our walk! Just be careful and not jaywalk because
Charles is a two-way street. I hope your shoes are comfortable; don't
want any blisters in the group.
This is the 200 block of Charles. Notice McDowells on our right? They
feature very expensive oriental and Kashmir rugs. On the other side of
the street is Lane Bryant. They feature larger sizes of clothing for the
ladies. Also, I believe that's Bonwit Teller nearby. Again to our
right, at 225, is the Masonic Temple. Quite an imposing building with
the two pillers in front. (It was gutted in 1998 or so and they moved to
the Hunt Valley area; Bonnie Blink to be exact.) That large building on
the southeast corner of Saratoga Street is The Metropolitan Bank. (The
building was razed several years ago.) Let's cross Saratoga and head up
to Mulberry!
That's Hopper-McGraw on the corner over there. They excel in featuring
fancy groceries and imported foods; caviar for example. The weathly from
Duluney Valley shop there often accompanied by their chauffers. If you
continue to your left, you might catch a glimpse of The Calvert Hall
School (they moved out also) and the corner of the Enoch Pratt Library.
While we're walking down to Franklin, I'd like to mention that Baltimore
was very fortunate to have in its city, some very prosperous merchants
who were very generous and donated money to enhance the culture of our
city. These included William Thompson Walters, Enoch Pratt, who made
possible the library we caught a glimpse of, George Peabody and Johns
Hopkins.
This is Franklin Street: look in the show window of the store at our
right. All that gorgeous silverware, bowls and vases. All handcrafted!
This is the Stieff Company, silversmiths extraodinaire. (Note: Maybe I'm
wrong, it could be Samuel Kirk; any way they merged and became
Stieff-Kirk, still extant) I'm sure it has caught your attention
already, but take particular note of that building on the NW corner of
Franklin. Reminds you of a greek or byzantine temple. That's the First
Unitarian Church. In 1819, at its dedication and the ordination of Jared
Sparks its minister, William Ellery Channing (said to be the father of
Unitarianism in the U.S.) gave a sermon that was said to be "heard
around the world." That rounded dome is made of copper hence the green
patina. (I saw it recently. It has been painted completely white. It's
horrible! Reminds me of someone painting a car with a brush.) By the
way, if we look to the right, down to St. Paul Street, you should be
able to visualize a huge viaduct by-passing the traffic below. I know
you can't see it; it not there yet!! But take my word that it will be
there some day and will be known as the Orleans Street Viaduct.
Don't know anything about this mid-block street we're passing other than
it's called Hamilton Terrace.
This is Center Street; that shop on the southwest corner is Campbells.
They specialize in outdoor furniture, garden statuary and specialties
for the garden. A very interesting place. But look over there on the
northwest corner; that's The Walters Art Gallery. It was endowed by
William Thompson Walters, the philanthropist who I mentioned earlier. It
houses valuable art collections consisting of oil paintings, statuary,
and artifacts collected from all over the world. Center Street is also
the beginning of Mt. Vernon Place. Since the east side of Charles Street
is mostly private homes, some modified to serve as apartments, let's
cross over to the center park and make our way through the park.
Up ahead is an interesting little fellow that's been standing in the
middle of that pool for many a year; he's naked but that doesn't stop
him from waving to us as we make our way up the hill to the Washington
Monument standing in the middle of Mt. Vernon Place. There's George at
the top. He's been there since 1829 when the monument ws completed by
subscription, having been started nine years earlier. Don Hardesty tells
me he likes to take his favorite girls to the top and steal a kiss or
two. Notice there are actually two intersecting parks; one extending
north and south, the other east and west. I used to play in these parks
when I first came to Baltimore two years ago. Looking east toward St.
Paul Street on the southside of the park is The Peabody School of Music,
endowed by the merchant and philanthropist, George Peabody. I lived just
across from the park. Come here in May and you'll find The Flower Mart
in full bloom sponsored by the Ladies Junior Leaque. They sell lemons
with peppermint sticks stuck in them. A real big time favorite with the
kids (and adults). All in the name of charity of course. In the future
(my ESP tells me this) it will have to be postponed a couple of years
because of rowdyness and vandalism. How sad. Before we leave, look
westerly through the park and you'll see the Alcazar on the next street
which is Cathedral. Look even further past Park Avenue, and with good
eyesight, you might spot The Boy's Vocational School. Can't see it from
here, but Loews Stanley Theatre is just south of that school on Howard
Street. Before we continue our walk, notice that large church on the
northeast corner. That's the Mt. Vernon Methodist Church. On that site,
Francis Scott Key wrote his poem The Star Spangled Banner from notes
made at Fort McHenry .
Okay, let's move on down through the park to Madison Street (not
Avenue).
This is the end of Mt. Vernon Place and Charles Street begins again. But
who's this guy on a horse at the end of the park? Why that's General
LaFayette with his right arm pointing toward the east. Because of this,
the story goes that motorists going south on Charles perceive this to be
a signal to keep to the left. They find themselves going the wrong way.
After all, Charles is two-way street. The only problem, they are on the
wrong side of the road. As we pass Madison, we have to get back on the
sidewalk and proceed up to Read Street.
If you look down Read Street to the west, you can see a very large
building at the corner of Cathedral Street. That's the Medical Arts
Building. If you need a good doctor, you'll probably find one there.
That's the old Albion Hotel on the other corner.(Believe it has condos
today) Notice the drugstore on the northwest corner of Charles; that's
MacGillivrary's, a fine store. (An aside -- It's still there today,
trading under the same name, but it looks like a liquor store you'd
expect to see in the slums.) That large building facing us on the
northeast corner is the Latrobe Apartments. Very nice place to live.
Let's cross Read and proceed up to Eager Street. CAREFUL CLYDE MERRITT!
You're really too young to be on this trip. Take his hand Bob Roush and
see that he doesn't get lost or into trouble.
Proceeding toward Eager we'll pass pass a few small shops. (one
will be the Peobody Book Store in a couple of years) Well, we're at
Eager Street. Really not much of interest here except that place on the
corner to your left. That's the Chanticleer, one of the first night
clubs to open after Prohibition was repealed two years ago. Look at that
big rooster on top; he's really huge!!! It's getting late. Let's go up
to Chase.
Now this is an interesting corner. On the corner to your left is the
facility of Hynson-Westcott-Dunning. They are a very prestigous
manufacturer of pharmaceuticals. You know that red stuff your mother
puts on your cut finger? That's an antiseptic called Mercurochrome and
they invented it right there in that building. (An aside -- They were
grabbed up by a large pharmaceutical company many years ago; could have
been Squibb or Merck) That huge building facing us is the Monumental
Life Insurance headquarters. Looks like something out of ancient Rome
doesn't it? And what about this monster of a building next to us? This
is the Belvedere Hotel! Strange architecture, but a beautiful
structure. Don't ask me how I know, but in about forty years this place
wll be sandblasted and made to appear as new and converted into condos.
Of course, you don't know what that means. Cross over and we'll proceed
to Biddle Street.
That restaurant on the corner is called the Riviera and is owned by a
chap named Otto Kleinschmidt. Modest place, but the food isn't too bad.
(An aside -- In the early forties, Otto married a woman who operated a
dry cleaning store next door. She was Jewish and being a German, Otto
took a lot of heat from some of his "friends." Also, many more years
after that, Otto sold the place. It became Danny's, a very popular
restaurant for many years). Looking west on Biddle is The Ramsey Street
School of Acting hosed in one of those brownstones. Across the street,
on Charles, intermixed among those Brownstone homes and apartments are a
couple of shops. Both are exclusive establishments catering to wealthy
clientel; one is Madame Rosenblatt, a corsetiere and the other is Wolf
Cohn's, featuring exclusive women's apparel. Let's move down a little
further. This building is the Anneslie Apartments, a so-so place, but it
does have an elevator, a rarity in some of these apartment buildings.
Notice the empty lot next door; some time ago several years before my
time in Baltimore, it was the site of the Lyceum Theatre which burned
down several years ago and nothing was ever built in its place. Let's go
to about the middle of the block. On your right is a store with a sign
in the window that says "RAINBOW CLEANERS" and another sign saying
Archer's Laundry. You're saying to yourselves, "so what?" Hey, kids THIS
IS WHERE I WORK! Every day after school I come here and walk at
least ten blocks in any direction delivering suits, dresses and laundry.
Man, I get a whole dollar a week! Plus tips; but not many. Remember when
we were up at Biddle Street? Well, I make deliveries to a house in the
east 200 block that some day will be famous. I make deliveries to the
Warfield's home where Wallis Simpson Warfield lived. I know; so what! your're thinking. My ESP capability tells me she will divorce her husband and later become the Duchess of Windsor after marrying the abdicated King Edward of England. Believe me it will happen!
Let's move down to Preston Street. (In the 1980's , the east side of
this 1200 block , including Loyola Bldg & Loan, will be complelely razed
with the exception of the Anneslie Apts and The Riviera and become a
parking lot). Before we cross, that big building on the corner is the
Pythian Building. It is the home of a fraternal organization known as
The Knights of Pythias. (An aside -- In a couple of years the lower
level will become The Club Charles, a popular night spot.) Also notice
that store across Charles Street; that's Gaston's, a caterer and a fancy
bakery. His name is actually Gaston Ansel, a Swiss. His ice cream leaves
a coating on your lips like you have just eaten a quarter pound of
butter. Yum! Looking to the west on Preston, you can see an old
beautiful church at the corner of Maryland Avenue. It reminds you of an
ancient Grecian building doesn't it? Too bad it's empty. (Several years
later it was acquired by the Greek orthodoxy, and it has been operating
prosperously as The Greek Orthodox Church to the present day.) To the
east on Preston, note the small A&P store; Mr. Siera has been its
manager for several years and always gives me an apple or banana when I
go in on an errand for someone. He only has one clerk, Herman Farber,
helping him. (Years later, Herman became a successful furniture dealer
in Virginia.) One more block to go kids; up to Mt. Royal Avenue.
After crossing Preston, we pass a drugstore, a barbershop and two
eateries. One is called the Vienna and the other is The Plaza. (The
owner of the former was a relative of the owner of The Riviera which we
passed at Biddle Street. Being German, he really got into trouble in the
late 30's or early 40's when he made some derogatory remarks about Jews.
Many Jews and Gentiles boycotted the restaurant which eventually put him
out of business.) Well, this is Mt. Royal Avenue. Across the street is
the Arundle Hotel on the west. Looking further west you can see the
Lyric Theater. It's been closed for several years. (In the 70's 0r 80's
it was renovated and used for concerts, musicals, etc. to the present
day) Just opposite the theatre is the Mt. Royal Station of the B&O.
Trains leaving Camden Station heading for New York and points north stop
here for additional passengers after coming out of the tunnel under
Howard Street. (I believe the Maryland Institute of Art presently uses
it as part of their facilities.) That's the Mar-Del Building on the
northwest corner of Charles. You can see that the lower floor is
occupied by Kelly Buick. (The owner, C. Markland Kelley, a few years
later became president of Baltimore City Council with Howard W. Jackson
as Mayor.) The upper floor is home to the Annual Baltimore Flower Show.
The drugstore on the Northeast corner is Peoples Drugstore. (A few
years later it was taken over by Reads.)
Well kids, I'm tired and ready to go home. We have walked 13
blocks and I suspect you're tired too. Don't get lost going home! Hey
Bob, take care of Clyde Merritt and see he gets home safely. As for me,
I'm going to the Little Tavern just around the corner and get myself a
hamburger, a piece of pie and a glass of milk for 15 cents. Then I'll go
next door to the Zell Motors Showroom and admire their beautiful new
1934 Packards. After that, IT'S BACK TO THE FUTURE! I want to see my
kids and my grandchildren!
EPILOGUE: I hope those who stayed long enough to complete reading
this epistle enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed writing it. With the
exception of the statistics on the Baltimore Fire, I used no reference
books or data. I wrote as I recalled it.
John E. Firth
September 11, 2003
We are walking north and coming to Fayette Street. If you glance to your
left you can see Miller Brothers restaurant, one of finest in the city.
Let's cross and head up to Lexington. This shop at 111 is S&N Katz
jewelery. Look in the window admire the display but don't linger long.
The building on the SW corner is O'Neils Department Store. It suffered
considerable damage from the fire. Glancing to your left, you can
just about see Huylers Ice Cream and Candy Store. A nice place to go
after the movie and stage show at the Loews Century Theatre next door.
Careful while we cross Lexington. Hey! There's Mr. Peanut handing out
samples of hot peanuts. Notice that strange looking building on the
corner. It's shaped just like the "flat iron" building in New York.
Don't recall the name. Let's walk.
That store across Franklin on the
northeast corner is Bensons, a fairly exclusive furniture store. Let's
cross Franklin and head down to Center. HEY! WATCH IT DON HARDESTY!
Franklin's a two-way street.
Pasadena, Maryland
.
"If we forget the past, there can be no future because the past is the
foundation upon which the future is built." JEF March 25, 2001
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